I’ve been to my fair share of nature reserves and national parks. Still, there was something special about the Parco Naturale della Maremma that made it stand out from all the others.
The beaches, the pine forests, the wildlife…all of it. Maybe it’s the distinct impression I got of it being like what I’m used to seeing back in Malta, yet having an exotic flare to it at the same time. Possibly. On the Maltese side of things, it did definitely come complete with its own set of coastal towers.
Speculation apart, what I do know for certain is that the beaches were incredible.
The sea was about as clear as it gets.
And those pine forests stretching right into the distance.
Having made it to the 56th day, the beard wasn’t faring too badly either.
I ditched the bike for the morning and set off for a walk. I followed the beach for two hours at the very least, and yet on it went in the distance. It had already been rather quiet by the road where I’d camped the previous night. The farther I went, the less people I saw. And the less clothing they were wearing. After an hour, I’d left the nudists behind me and now had the entire stretch of coast all to myself and the local wildlife.
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Once I was back on the bike and cycling through some more of the park, I came across an information office and stopped to ask about the best bike route onwards to Talamone. I shouldn’t even have bothered – all I was told by the ever-so-helpful staff was to give up and go home. Impossible, they said, the park’s a dead end for cyclists. Like, totally. An hour later I’d made it to Talamone hassle-free, dead ends and all.
The day’s destination was Orbetello, just a few kilometres more along the coast. I was actually meant to have arrived there days earlier, but had loved the scenery around Punta Ala and the Parco della Maremma far too much to rush through it.
I’d never read or heard anything about Orbetello before, but as I was planning my route I’d spotted it on the map and knew I definitely had to visit.
With a setting like that, you can’t possibly go wrong. And indeed I didn’t.
I was going to be staying with Gianluca, the colleague of the dad of a friend. A friend, in other words, maybe just one waiting to be made.
I may have had no idea who he was and whom I’d actually be staying with before reaching Orbetello, but everything worked out great. I honestly couldn’t have asked for more – he was my host, guide and cycling buddy all in one.
I ended up staying over at his place for three days. Orbetello itself is a small enough city, with the old centre having maybe a handful of parallel streets. Each of them, though, is simply beautiful. I couldn’t get enough of walking up and down those same streets, spotting something new each time.
I also got to go on a day trip round Monte Argentario, with Gianluca joining for the first part.
Monte Argentario provided yet some more amazing scenery!
I returned back to Gianluca’s after the day’s bike ride to some great news – his mum had invited us over for dinner to sample some of her lasagne. She’s apparently known for it all around town, no kidding. So once I’d showered and loaded up the washing machine, we headed out.
The lasagne truly was good, but what was even better was meeting Flora, the master chef, and her husband, no less famous in his own right as an Italian shooting champion and Olympic referee.
I’d originally planned to leave the following morning. In the meantime, though, I’d heard back from Cecilia, the friend whose dad’s colleague Gianluca was, to say that she’d be arriving back home to the nearby town of Manciano that Friday afternoon. It was now Wednesday, so if I just hung around for another day we’d actually be able to meet. Gianluca was kind enough to offer to host me for the extra night, and when they heard I was staying over, his parents also extended their dinner invitation for a second day! There were the last few pieces of lasagne and some leftover ragù in the fridge – I was guaranteed not to go to bed hungry.
More to follow in Threading through Tuscany – Part 3!
